Playa Guiones is the main beach in Nosara and is another endless stretch of sand backed by hills and jungle. The development within Nosara has largely been done very thoughtfully and building is kept well back from the beach front and limited to low level only. This means that the beach retains much of its character and remains a great place to hang out in between surfs. Another beach break with endless possibilities, Guiones can keep both beginners and pros entertained for a few days.
As an experienced surfer you might be a little disappointed pulling up to the beach in Carrillo. Despite first appearances it can hold a fun little wave for beginners to play on and practise their bottom turns. The beach is also always relatively quiet.
For those looking for something somewhat more challenging, just 15 minutes away is Camaronal and the best wave I surfed in Costa Rica. Camaronal is a nature reserve for turtles. There is no development near the beach other than the ranger’s station and reserve facilities. As such it escapes the crowds found in some other spots, despite being a world class wave. On my last day here I enjoyed the surf to myself for half an hour…
The main break is a long peeling right that, when big, can offer some epic barrels and heavy wipe outs. There can be strong rips here and the wave is not forgiving, but if you are fast enough it can offer you the ride of your life. Camaronal also retains a wild feel thanks to its reserve status. Whilst Katy was relaxing on the beach a turtle hauled itself up the sand, dug a hole, laid her eggs and then struggled back down to the water. A real privilege to witness.
BROKEN BOARDS AND BROKEN LIMBS
The only spot that we visited to surf outside of the Guanacaste Peninsula was Dominical. We really headed down here because we knew that the nearby Park National Manuel Antonio was the best bet for us to see the legendary sloths which inhabit Costa Rica’s jungles. Despite this, Dominical turned out to be a great wave. It is heavy even when small and beginners should be wary of anything approaching head high.
This place has a reputation for broken boards and broken limbs. It was the first place in Costa Rica to introduce life guards and this should tell you everything. Dominical actually has great access, but because it is a few hours south has managed to remain quiet, dusty and forgotten by most, other than a few surfers and plenty of hippies who lounge around wearing tie dye and sporting dreads. I wonder if this is what Costa Rica was like back in the 70s?
The gateway to the park is Manuel Antonio and the town beach has another fun little wave for beginners that actually offers a surprisingly long ride for an unrated beach break. The waves are best to the North, away from the sunbathers and regular tourists and, with another jungle back drop and rocky islets just off shore, is particularly scenic. The park itself isn’t somewhere that you would go to look for an adventure. It is however somewhere you are more or less guaranteed to see sloths. They are beautiful beasts who frequent the tree tops, moving slowly from branch to branch without a care in the world other than napping and hunting for tasty morsels. They will keep you transfixed for hours.
Back on the peninsula, Santa Teresa was our final stop before the inevitable trudge home. This is a surf town with unparrelled access to breaks both to the North and South. Hermosa offers the friendliest of waves and is also the least crowded of the stretches of beach on this Southern tip of the peninsula. El Carmen is a consistent break that can be surfed by anyone and is very close to the main town. Santa Teresa itself offers the largest and best waves on this stretch and because of the many surf options the peaks remain relatively quiet, especially if you get up at the crack of dawn for the best conditions. To the far north of the beach is Suck Rock, a reef break that can hold some considerable size and is best left to experienced surfers only. Paddling in too deep here will mean ending up on the rocky point found at the end of the beach. If you are up for it, long steep rides are to be had which can provide multiple carving turns on their pristine faces.
Has Costa Rica been ‘done’? I suspect so. However this doesn’t mean that it shouldn’t continue to attract adventurers looking for endless waves and stunning scenery. Costa Rica is a world class surf destination and should be on any paddler’s dream list. We have mentioned plenty of breaks that should be visited, but between each of these spots are dozens of others which can be surfed on your own and allow you to find your private space. They are just waiting for the adventurous surfer to explore and discover for themselves….
