No one ever looks forward to a transfer after a long flight, but on the three hours down to Ahangama you start to get the real feel for the country. The scruffy commercial corridor from the airport melts away to reveal jungles tumbling down to the water’s edge, palm fringed lagoons, colourful birds and the craziest driving. Most of the driving here is done using the horn to indicate you are passing or about to turn. The two lane roads become a three-laner without warning, or indeed the third lane. Trucks and buses rule the middle of road and all of the smaller cars, tuk-tuks, bicycles, motorbikes, pedestrians and street dogs move to side as they rumble through. Your need to have a cool head to drive here, it’s basically dodgeball with oncoming vehicles.
