The swell was predicted to be 10-12ft and offshore…frothing! We rocked up on the ski and there were already crew there but no one out, I paddled straight out after seeing a 10ft barrel explode on the reef. It was an amazing feeling standing under that giant cliff by myself while seals were swimming underneath. You could actually see everything in the water which made things a little more intimidating. After standing in the line up for half an hour without any waves and a crew of charges jumping off the rocks and heading for the take-off, I knew I had to go whatever came my way. Sure enough something did, about an 8 footer started dredging and the boys were all screaming at me go go go! I swung around and drove that paddle harder than I ever have before; it was quite bumpy with the backwash and I thought I had blown it but managed to hold on through to the end by fully leaning on my paddle and negotiating the small step rears up without warning.
