On the way we checked out one left that used to be a perfect left until the earthquake. Alas now it’s just a cheese grating un-makeable death tube, which the boys tried to convince us to go surf. We then we drove into ‘The Bay’ I was seeing Coca-Cola ads from the ‘80s as the waves wrapped in perfectly. Erman informed me my boards were on their way so I settled into the warung to eat banana pancakes and film the most tantalising views imaginable.
Wes and the girls slowly made their way out and respectfully sat them selves on the outside of the pack, picking off the wider, missed ones, that were still insanely good fun. I love surfing a wave for the first time. The apprehensive butterflies from the unknown. Having to figure it out the subtle nuances of the wave on the reef. What the crowd vibe is going to be like. It’s like that awkward first date (and this girl was super hot so you’re a little bit nervous).
Well at this size, (3-5 ft) it was an easy in, deep water at the take off, with no rocks to get washed in on. And it was such a stunningly beautiful shaped wave. Quite a high almond shaped barrel so you have to take a high line to get pitted, but dropping in and looking down the line, it’s just picture perfect and oh so smooth.
