Rifles
That night we were told Rifles would be on so it was a 5.30am wake up. We paddled out in Mentawai perfection. Sunrise, crystal clear water and building swell. We took a few decent sized ones – what a wave! It is possible to ride 400m down the reef, but we were only making it to the first barrel section. I was constantly looking towards the horizon looking for what was about to be unleashed. I suddenly saw a huge set and realised we were much too deep. I start paddling out at about 60 degrees full speed to get out of there. I got over the first wave and was still paddling out towards a huge one jacking up. It’s 6.15am and my brain is saying should I go or should I just try and make it over to safety. I hear I’m being called into it, and with Nick watching, it’s MTFU time. I paddled like mad on the right side, bringing the board round. Paddle Paddle PADDLE! Full power strokes and I’m still being sucked up the face of the wave. Finally the board releases, I nearly lose it on the bottom turn, set the line and go, and go and go, not a millisecond to think about anything other than racing the sections and desperately trying to stay on the board and holding your nerve to not bail as that lip is curling over you. How good that wave was, truly the wave of my life”. SUP
“ I rode the outside section, raced into the normal take off, went through the critical section and got spat out into the channel towards the waiting boat. What a way to end the day ”
