We launched the jet-ski and motored up the reef with smiles on our faces in anticipation of getting a few bombs before lunch. To our surprise once we got further up the reef closer to the action it was clearly bigger but so perfect it would be cheating to tow in. The angle to the reef was also slightly different making it possible for Jason to windsurf. We raced back to the beach and changed gear as quickly as we could knowing valuable time had already been wasted and that what we had seen was not going to last forever. Within 20 minutes, Jason and I were dropping into our first wave together, he on his windsurfer and I on my SUP.
I was a bit deeper than Pozza on the take off and had the best view. I couldn’t believe my eyes as I bottom turned looking up at the size of the wave. Too deep, clearly I was going to get dusted. As Jason pumped his sail off the top projecting down the line to beat the racing section ahead of him I tried to high line as well but got thumped. I came up so stoked knowing we were at the beginning of a great session. We exchanged waves for about an hour and a half. The conditions were as good as it gets, smooth as butter, cross off shore winds, 12-15 feet on the sets and no one else out. We kept telling each other how lucky we were just hooting and hollering on every drop. The session wasn’t long but certainly one of the most fun surfs I’ve had for a long while. It just goes to show what can be done with an SUP. There are so many more waves that can be surfed, the ability to cover great paddling distances and more easily stroke into bigger waves has to be seen as a relief to the surfing world as it spreads out the crowd. I hope all people are encouraged to find their own space and let others have theirs. SUP
“ We were travelling in a sleek, low profile family wagon with no protection on the front so we made an effort to tuck in behind huge road trains hoping they would clear a
path through the kangaroos ”