THE CALLING
Not sure after how many hours of driving it was, but fatigue was high as I got to a town where you can turn right and check the surf. Being on a sup I wasn’t that sure about whether you could surf there or whether I would get told to sod off, but I turned in, crossed the salt lake and tried to find the break. Nearing camp I drove past a car with eyes leering upward and an uncertain gaze as to the size of the boards on the roof. I knew the look, they’d spotted the enemy. The first track led to an evil death ledge barrel that wasn’t an option so I back-tracked and checked another access to the beach, walked over the hill and…wow. A perfect left hand break with no one on it. Rubbing my eyes in disbelief I stare across the bay and see four guys surfing the other point, so it wasn’t a shark emptying the line-up. Fatigue forgotten, I was out there and laughing at my fortune. After getting my fair share on the left I couldn’t help but wonder what the right was like. So kicking off of the left, I slowly scratched my way over to where four blokes with large beards gave me some not so friendly regards. This area is renowned for being territorial with threats of violence commonplace towards anyone with a camera or associated with the press. Hence I’ll call this place Voldemorts, as the wave that shall not be named.
Ever so slowly I approached and sat down on the outside, asking if it was taboo for me to be there, to which they responded with a guffaw, meaning, of course it is you idiot. Anyways, I snuck a few being very courteous and oh what a wave it was. Thinking not to push my luck, I stroked back to the van with thoughts turning towards my tyres, hearing of many such actions taking place in the past. But it wasn’t the case and it would seem I pulled off the impossible. Celebrating with the last of my West Aussie Export beers and a huge grin of satisfaction, I drove back off into the desert continuing my journey. I won’t bore you with the semantics of the rest of the road trip, except that it was an insane journey. Meeting up with old mates from the past, checking out wines and beers of different regions, golf at friends’ courses, some even had backyards that were courses. Down through South Australia, having new-found friends guide me by phone through their home towns, trying to find waves across to Victoria and The Great Ocean Road which surely has to be one of the wonders of the driving world. “Really bloody beautiful”, unfortunately it was onshore as I drove down, probably a blessing due to my time constraints.
