GOBLINS OF THE DEPTHS
The much-anticipated swell made its return judging by the foam sweeping over the distant rocks visible from our window. Seemingly oriented more north-west than on the first couple of days we decide to go and check out a different spot that should be interesting. Alexis grabs his gear and we rush off to meet the eternal optimist, Danny. We walk down a dirt track just opposite the house, the sun brightening the afternoon sky and a steady wind tickling the backs of our necks. We pass a few curious locals, intrigued by the boards under our arms and bags on backs, then arrive in a little cul-de-sac with a small, almost hidden footpath leading off it. We push our way through the dense vegetation. Wide-eyed at the wonder of it all, and with the sound of breaking waves getting louder with every step, we catch a glimpse between some bushes of a stretch of beige sand that we hurry to reach. A splendid crescent beach comes into view and in the distance off shore we can see some lovely clean-looking little rights glinting emerald green in the sunlight. The sets coming in are relatively small, three foot max, but the boys are nonetheless impatient to get out and ride them after two days of enforced rest.