Following Danny along the beach to the entry Alexis can see the enticing waves breaking, then after passing close to a group of sealions at the end of the beach stops in his tracks in front of an imposing iguana, sunning itself on the volcanic rocks, motionless, as if dead. Darwin wrote in his memoirs about these reptiles as “disgusting,
ungainly lizards” and “goblins of the depths”. Their distinctive crests, crawling walk and resemblance to a mini-dinosaur is fascinating and
impressive in equal measure, especially given the huge numbers of them to be seen all over the nearby rocks.
Waiting out at the line up with the sun slowly sinking towards the distant horizon, there’s a special light on the wooded hillside behind the bay and the village beyond. The wait is occasionally a bit long but worth it as Alexis and Danny take full advantage of the small but perfectly formed rights racing in, working on their frontside moves. Alexis’ enthusiasm for the new spot is matched by the ease with which he sequences his carves and big variety of turns on every section of the wave. Whilst not the most memorable session ever, it’s nevertheless filled with promise for the days ahead as the swell should continue to build.
