Thinking there might be a rock right in front of the take off zone or treacherous currents I approach with caution and start with a gentle ride on the shoulder of a mid-size wave. It looks ok. The wave is not the best in the area from what I’ve seen this morning but being alone makes up for it. I can choose the ones I want and the ones I leave, no pressure! Lots of action and lots of paddling and swimming. After a while I start to get a feel for how the spot works and I can shoot the bigger ones. It is like a swimming pool with a mechanical wave even though it’s a bit difficult to predict when the big sets are coming in. It is pretty much the first time I’ve enjoyed such a place by myself…they do still exist!
It’s a short session and I’m already tired. The tempo is different when you don’t have to share nor wait. But the day isn’t over yet and after a quick lunch, I think I really have to try the first wave I saw, with a surfboard this time. But that’s another story.
