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With a freshening SW blowing in, a circumnavigation of the island would have been folly. Instead, we went up the eastern shore, gazing up at the towering rock formations and enjoying the easy downwind run. Seals were everywhere, but they weren’t snorting and blowing and didn’t seem to mind us. Nick explained that they give birth on the mainland and then swim back; they must have a built in GPS. We turned round at Gull Rock and got our heads down into the wind for the return leg, with the promise of ale in the Marisco Tavern as a reward.