Then it starts to rain. Within minutes, the dirt road turns to mud and water is flooding the deep puddles and emptying into the nearby river. We spend the day driving the coast; stopping in fishing villages and markets, sampling the local flavours as our driver educates us on the best breaks to handle the large incoming swell. There are so many beautiful beaches here, each surrounded by big rocky cliff points with jungle canopy draping right down into the ocean. Then by the end of the day, the new swell starts to fill in so we finish off the day with a fun surf, enjoying the 85 degree water and watching the sun melt into the sea.
Later that evening, while walking back to the house, a small car plastered in mud pulls up to the camp with my two boardbags on its roof. It’s unbelievable. I’d been pretty sure that I would never see my boards again and that I was going to have to bodysurf the rest of the trip!
Morning breaks and we wake to beautiful sunny skies, light offshore winds and the thundering echo of large waves exploding on the beach. Fuelled by adrenaline and excitement, we rush to pack the truck with our boards, paddles and camera gear and within minutes find ourselves navigating the flooded dirt road leading to the beach.
