A darkening horizon
The local beach break is out of control and closing out as the new swell crashes down in full force. We continue up the rocky coast to check an outside reef break known for its ability to handle large waves. The view from the cliff’s edge is breathtaking. As we stand and watch, a set wave hits the outer reef, feathers off a perfect A frame peak and then peels for a couple hundred yards – and there is no one around. The waves are easily double overhead with 15-20 wave sets, making for a very challenging paddle out. After studying the lineup for a little while, I grab my Naish 9’8” Gun, a paddle and a strong leash, and scratch my way through the impact zone to the outside. Within minutes another set fills the horizon and I paddle over the waves to position myself on the peak. With a couple hard strokes of my paddle, I glide over the ledge and set up for my bottom turn. I get such an adrenaline rush dropping into a wave for the first time, navigating the unknown of the inside section and then kicking out with speed.
Several hours pass in the blink of an eye. I chase down large, perfect peaks without a soul in sight.
