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Before long, my curiosity takes me over to a thundering left on the outside, where the swell seems magnified and raw. The angle of the swell is a little too west and is closing out the inside bowl, so I decide to go against the grain and take it right. The wave has a Maverick’s type of feel, big and ledgy with a huge inside wall that grinds over boiling water and finishes with a compressing close out. I manage to dial in a handful of waves before wearing one on the head – which sends me in for a much needed break. We eat lunch watching the waves as the wind switches onshore and the next storm front moves in. The sky turns a menacing black and we see lightning strikes off in the distance. Time to pack up and high tail it home!
