We roller-coaster over several large swells and make our way to the inside section of the left reef, just as a wave erupts over the shallow boil with a spitting tube that races down the line flawlessly. Like a kid in a candy store, I frantically toss my board and paddle overboard while slapping my face with sunscreen and jump in. I mind-surf every wave as I paddle out to the peak, frothing for my first taste. The offshore winds and the exposed rocks from the rapidly dropping tide make for some fun and challenging drops.
After about an hour, a couple of surfers paddle out to join in the fun and we all trade off waves and push each other to go deeper. The hot tropical sun is really draining and forces me to take a much-needed water break under the shade on the boat. We surf for a few more hours before we decide to roll the dice and take the boat up to the big Popoyo reef for an evening session. So with no time to spare and only hours till sunset, we motor up to the reef. The offshore winds have groomed the storm chop smooth and the ocean seems to glass off, making for epic conditions.
