Don’t get me wrong it’s not all rainbows and unicorns, in fact some of the most challenging waves can be found in the most unlikely places. If you drove here on a flat day you’d think ‘what is this dystopian industrial sprawl, I bet the water quality is disgusting’ and you’d be right. But when the planets align and you have a solid swell from the right direction, these dirty reef breaks will test the testicular fortitude of the most hardened pro riders. Many shots taken in winter from these spots continue to make front covers in the domestic surf magazines. For years these spots were solely populated by prone surfers but now myself and a few others regularly do battle with these punishing waves and it doesn’t always go to plan as the repairs on a couple of boards will testify.
