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The conditions are looking perfect right now. We tear into our wetsuits and run to the water. However after two good waves it´s already over. We should have been here one hour earlier. The tide floods and the beach is so steep that a significant backwash arises. I don’t like backwashes. No one likes backwashes. If we have learned anything today, it is that the great art of surfing is to be in the right place at the right time. And we just got a little bit lost today. But for lunch, our timing was perfect.
