SLOPE DRAG
There are very few things in this world that you truly experience on your own. Even being born wouldn’t be on the list, because there’s definitely someone else involved… Figuring out that mercurial moment between paddling for a wave and the subsequent release would be one though. It’s the first glass ceiling all new surfers come up against, and the wisdom seems to be ‘once you’ve felt it once, you’ll know what to look for next time’. Hmmm. It’s a real cognitive blind-spot for a surfer; no sooner have you figured out how to do it right, have you forgotten how to do it wrong. This makes it very difficult to pass the knowledge onto others, and so we all have to learn on our own. And what if we’re all doing it slightly differently, feeling for a subtly different sensation? We’d never know…
Rider Bernd Roediger
Photo Frankie Bees