Tweet
Rider: Gerovan Abreau • Photo Felix Blackauville
It looks cylindrical, reliable and makeable. But those who have sampled this shifting beach break in South Sumatra will tell you that this is a freeze frame in the chaos, the proverbial monkey writing the complete works of Shakespeare. Three feet below is the most abrasive, hard packed sand outside of the Great Pyramids and there’s no telling what the wave will do until you’re in it. Gerovan Abreau charges it like a wounded rhino nonetheless.