Decent sets are pouring in, some more hollow than others, but the rocks are far enough away and the current is not too strong. Slowly we begin to relax. I see Raf take off on a beautiful left and hear him shout in joy. This stirs me and I’m soon paddling into a wave that looks larger than the others. The take-off is quick but the lip doesn’t throw too hard, allowing me to carry enough speed without losing control. Mid-face, I see the big, smooth shoulder ahead of me, just perfect for the 7’6 I set up as a quad for this occasion. To surf in these conditions is to understand in an instant why we took 3 planes and travelled 2 days to get here. A sequence of top-to-bottom turns follows and I kick out in the safety of the channel and paddle back towards the peak. There are other sups and a few surfers. Everyone smiles. the atmosphere is super cool. Almost the opposite of the localism you sometimes hear about in Puerto Rico. Raf and I surf and return to the peak until we’re exhausted. In the afternoon the swell picks up and the wind gets stronger, we’re happy to leave it to the jet skis and tow surfers. Some waves are really massive, prompting us to contact Michael to support us on jet ski the next day. Despite his busy schedule he agrees to help, and more importantly to bring Manu our photog for a ring-side seat.
