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I set out from my house in the opposite direction to every passing surfer, it’s one of those rare days when it’s sunny, glassy and good swell . It’s also the weekend. I live in a typical surf town, typical in that the weekends are always buzzing with visitors and typical in that locals rarely surf more than 10 minutes from where they live, they don’t need to, especially today when the waves are pumping. I’m having second thoughts, why go explore ?. I remind myself that I also used to wonder why people were so happy surfing with a paddle in their hand until I tried it.
“ The tide pushes in like a syringe injecting more and more fun to the swell as long walls line up and race down the point ”
