The waves are small but are making way for an upcoming swell. The wind is gone, what a perfect occasion to score a nice session. Sleeping in the van reconnects you with the essence of a trip. I’m rediscovering the joy of the holidays in the caravan just like when I was a kid; knowing that we can switch camp everyday without restrictions. It’s also listening to the sound of the breaking waves when the sun is not even up. It’s a good sign; the best motivation to leave your cosy bed and put the fins on the board. The water is cold here; especially early in the morning, but the scenery and the sun make up for it and lend a true taste of discovery and adventure. On a trip, whether you’re close or far from home, you have to be patient and trust your lucky star. While waiting for the conditions, the Algarve offers the possibilities to enjoy an area that has retained its authenticity. The west coast has been well preserved because of its location in a national park. Villages are still villages. There are no big condominiums devoted to mass tourism, and I love it this way. In every colourful village painted in the traditional white and blue, you have the chance to eat well, cheaply. You become accustomed to the local style, and the atypical rhythm only found when travelling a new destination… Then a beautiful day arrived.
The waves grew much louder in the middle of the night; I’m parked on top of the cliff above the beach of Carrapateira. Early in the morning, the sweet sensation of the D-Day can be felt. A side-off wind is blowing; perfect blue water is mottled by white caps. Quick breakfast then the gear is out, and even though no other surfers have yet come out, I am ready to brave this virgin swell.
