Nick took his first wave fairly deep, made the drop but the wave closed out on him and took him down. I was giggling like an excited teenager only to see his board tombstoning with Nick deep below, argh. I briefly considered going to help but another wave was just behind it and he was too far away. Two minutes later Nick was paddling back out looking slightly shaken, but smiling. He explained that he thought he was either taken quite far in (near the rocks) or quite deep (also not good) as he could feel the seaweed wrapping around his feet whilst he was held down.
I paddle back over to my position to be greeted by Dom and Rob Small, both surfing some skinny big wave guns. I witnessed Dom stroking into a good size steep-as-hell Cribbar monster only to see him tilt too far forward once to his feet and get taken down by the following lip. Why is it always so funny see your friends wipeout? Once we’ve seen they’re OK of course! Unfortunately I didn’t see any of Pete’s waves from the water ( I may have been swimming) but judging from some of the pics he looked like he had a couple of monsters. Three quarters of the way through I’d managed to escape getting clipped but did finally get caught inside facing a few on the head, we all have to pay our dues although I feel I got away lightly on this occasion. Six awesome waves later the tide was turning and it was time to head in, I paddled back with Rob to get the correct route in and walked a little taller back up the beach and carpark up the hill. On the way up a couple of blond haired local groms on BMX’s rode by and said, “Dude you got some bombs out there”. I nodded a thanks and smiled all the way home. SUP
