During my twenty days stay, it was surfable pretty much every morning and sunset. The long beach with red cliffs in the right makes you feel like surfing in California. The sunsets are orange and mystic, all is in silence. The breeze starts to drop completely and the water surface reflects everything like a mirror. The lighthouse starts to flash. On one last ride home, I got to share a wave with a pelican; both in silence, both going down the line riding the energy of the wave. It was so magic!
The wave is so much fun, you can push as much as you want because it’s not really powerful or dangerous. But don’t think this is only a beginners wave, when it gets the right swell, it can really go off with steeper sections and dauntingly big walls. This wave is so unique that there is a project to have the wave designated as a national monument, protecting it from development for future generations. I really hope they succeed.
