With the swell starting to diminish, we set off for a trip to another ‘secret’ spot, called ‘Secret’. The locals are all well up for joining us. It’s a superb left, well away from any villages, and where hardly any surfers bother to venture. We manage to find a 4×4 van to take all the gear to a village lost in the middle of the forest. From there we have to follow a clay track leading to the point around which this magnificent left is breaking. Davos, Pete and Chase get their boards and a few snacks out. The locals help us carry everything but we’re not travelling in style here. After 40 minutes walking we finally hit the spot, shouting in relief and joy. Chase and Davos are quick to get out into the best sections. Pete, less experienced, stays closer to the fringes. Davos is, as usual, giving it everything, dropping down from the lip to come back frontside and smack that foam, putting on a great show on some ever more impressive sections. After each session, Davos and Chase swap their pre-production boards between them – two 8’6 boards, a 9’0 and a 9’4. There’s plenty of evolution in all the 2015 shapes, depth of the single front concave, shape and volume of the rear, all scrutinised in detail to be able to give quality feedback on the latest protos to
shaper-in-chief Patrice Remoiville.
“ We set off to a secret spot and the locals help us carry everything but we’re not travelling in style here. After 40 minutes walking we finally get to the place ”
