Luckily, our taxi man stops for breakfast, although this means that we possibly won’t be making it in time for that evening ferry. Earlier, back at the airport, I’d been checking a few websites where travellers had spoken about the ferry and the fact that it’s nearly always running late. It’s supposed to leave at 8.00pm, and we’ve got at least 6 hours driving left to do. Theoretically, we should make it in time. I go to hurry up the driver, he finishes his cigarette in one draw and coffee in one gulp, and we’re back on the road which is in terrible condition, but does allow some stunning panoramic views from time to time.
We effectively cross the island from north to south, passing by Lake Toba, an immense inland water reserve. But there’s no time to stop, we head onwards towards Sibolga. As night falls, so does the rain, storms rumbling in the distance, then very close by, suddenly we’re in a deluge with the lightning striking the forest all around us. The road is a river, and we’re hoping it’s not much further. Wrong! The driver tells us there are still three hours to Sibolga. It’s already 6.00pm, we have to hope the ferry skipper hasn’t got a hot date waiting for him in Nias, otherwise he will surely be leaving without us.