This amazing right break was “discovered” in the 70s by a bunch of wandering Aussies including Peter Troy, Kevin Lovett and John Giesel. At that time, finding new waves of this quality was all part of the great surf adventure. But it was impossible then to have the kind of advance swell forecasting we have nowadays, satellites were not even capable of showing the full coastline in detail. Surfers just turned up “on spec”.
At the time there was still a high risk of catching polio. Since that time, reported cases are much rarer; indeed the locals tell us that this mosquito-borne menace has been eradicated on Nias. Less predictable is the seismographic activity; in 2005 a quake registering 8.7 on the Richter scale caused the disappearance of hundreds of islanders. It was followed by the predictable tsunami that ‘only’ caused material damage. After all that the tectonic movement, the whole reef was seen to have risen by a metre, further improving the already sublime right break. Other spots actually LOST their wave at that time. Some (Asu, for example) are only surf-able when a big swell rolls in. Any other time there’s simply not enough water present to be able to surf without serious risk. We pass many chilled and happy days at Keyhole Surf Camp. Surfing, and eating the seemingly endless stream of tasty little dishes concocted by Mama, the camp cook, each more delicious than the one before. We’re lodged on the first floor of a house looking out on to the spot. With each change of conditions we can adapt in the blink of an eye. It’s also very handy for judging the number of surfers already on the spot and avoiding the periods when there are too many.
