THE TRUE LOCALS
Surely the other blessing of stand up. With your feet on the board and not dangling in the water, the first bite at least is guaranteed to be foam and glass and perhaps will make old toothy a little less hungry. Not that that calmed my thoughts any when I went out solo on a bombie on a gloomy overcast evening. A school of something was sitting right on the peak with all kinds of larger fish flying around underneath me, birds dive bombing from above, and me thinking it was only a matter of time before something bigger was going to come around. Thankfully, that wasn’t the case. I was nervous as hell, but the waves were so good I couldn’t come in. The other locals are not quite as much of threat as the ever growing shark population, but they’ve been here a while. They’re mainly transplants from over east, as most were from somewhere else at some point.
But they’re just as territorial as the previously mentioned, only their teeth aren’t as nasty and probably aren’t even their real ones any more, as they’re all getting on a bit. Having said that, their passion for surfing is undiminished and they’re all fit as; it’s pretty inspirational and something to aspire to when I get even older.