What’s it like getting into the right spot on a stand up?
With a stand up, it is quite easy to hold position. The reason being because in order to get a good barrel you pretty much have to sit deeper than everyone because once you get going on a wave you move so much quicker on a stand up. I haven’t surfed out there on macking days, just days in that 3-8ft range 10ft on the biggest, so 20ft face max. For me I find that the best way to line up is get the most prominent angled wave of the swell and gauge where you were on the wave after riding it. If you didn’t get barrelled then you need to sit deeper. There is a boil though on the inside that if you take off behind it, chances are you’re in a good position to get a draining barrel on a SW swell.
