En route, I decide to film some of the countryside and magnificent, traditional villages. Our guide stops me from filming and informs me that only tourist sites are permitted to be filmed or photographed. I ask her why. ‘Because those are the rules.’ she responds. I find this a shame as I see nothing that needs to be hidden. In the fields, a cow pulls a plough aided by a team of villagers using pick-axes. Row-by-row, men and women rhythmically till the dry soil with their basic tools. Off in the distance, I see farm houses; single-storey with white walls and brown or get roof tiles.
Later, we make a stop in a valley with a breath-taking waterfall. It is impossible to resist the urge to glide along the crystal-clear water. The 100m-tall drop creates powerful cascade and an intangible feeling of energy that makes my heart pound. North Korea is 80% mountainous terrain, and the ridge we are on stretches as far as the eye can see. Spring here puts on a dazzling display of whites, violets and lush greens everywhere. The near-total absence of cars makes the natural beauty even more special.