How has the choice of board and watercraft changed out there over the years and has the balance really shifted away from towing in?
It’s pretty cool because I get a ride so many different crafts out at Jaws that I am able to approach the wave from so many different directions. The equipment is constantly evolving, the biggest change besides the shape and width of our paddle in guns, has been the flotation vests. Because we have these inflatable air canisters, they help us push the limits even further, all from the instilled confidence that you’ll make it to the top. The designs are changing but in very, very subtle ways. It’s still the basic fundamental design that the early pioneers started off surfing with, it’s just being fine-tuned now. I don’t think any sport is irrelevant out there; they all bring a different experience. And I love doing them all for that reason.
I do remember that when we did an interview in your garden way back in 2010 that you mentioned getting a classic ride at Jaws was the ultimate expression of what you do. Is this still the case? And have you exceeded your own expectations of what you thought you’d be capable of out there?
Since 2010, I have exceeded my expectations and even my visual dreams of what I could achieve out at Jaws. No way could I imagine some of the things I’ve been able to do. A lot of it has to do because of my peers pushing the limits around me helping me move myself to a higher level. I would say the best thing on the entire planet I can imagine doing is surfing out there, it literally is my favourite thing in the world and I would drop anything else at a drop of a hat to do it. I feel even more strongly about it then I did way back in 2010! I have seen barrels from the inside that would just blow your mind. In the moment I am so blown away that I can’t even comprehend what I’m totally seeing until I sit down under a tree the next day and really think about it!
