Not expecting to find surf, I didn’t bring a leash and of course there are rocks and all sorts underwater which makes the ride a bit more complicated. Although it looks easy it really isn’t and I get washed in in 20 cm of water. The board gets rolled on rocks almost after every wave. It looks stupid I’m sure but I’m having fun and then smiling the rest of the day, for two reasons. First, I scored a new place totally by coincidence. Second, the swell is here for a while and I know tomorrow I’ll be scoring a real wave, a bit more well-known, maybe a bit crowded, maybe not. But today, I got some pictures on my card that I never thought I’d have.
Every day is a new day, right? But every dawn in Centro America has something special to offer. It has a light that you don’t see anywhere else. This is why I love to go super early and see the first morning sunbeams brightening the surf’s white water. It is not so much white, it’s more creamy. Sweet. Gentle. But it doesn’t last long as the sun rises fast. Too fast in the tropical skies.
