The swell is here, I still remember yesterday’s session but of course, I’m completely focused on the perfect blue wave that I have known for a while, and of whom I never get neither bored or too familiar with. It’s one of the good days; a crew of surfers will be here too but if you behave as you must with your SUP, there won’t be any trouble.
First light is around 5:30 and you can be pretty much by yourself for a few waves. Then comes a little crowd. People that live here, a few are local, others not. It is sometimes a good vibe and sometimes a bit tough, as it is everywhere else in the world, I guess. But what makes this part of the world so special is the feeling that you might find something new. It is still the ‘New World’ as the Spanish Conquistadores named it. It is somehow different to our old European patterns, in terms of history but also in terms of geography, landscapes and infrastructure. It is a place where you can shoot perfect waves and shoot wonderful wildlife with your camera. So many beaches, reefs, rights, lefts, volcanos, forests, dry lands, wetlands, earthquakes even. So many things in such a small piece of land, stuck between two giant continents and two giant oceans.
