Winding west along the coast road from Portballintrae is another of the area’s most consistent surf spots, Whitreocks. Surfing at Whiterocks is all about catching a wave under the watchful walls of ancient Dunluce castle; ironically it’s a view that never gets old. GOT fans will recognise the castle as the House of Greyjoy, ruler of the Iron Islands but it has also served as inspiration for CS Lewis as the Royal Castle of Cair Paravel in the Chronicles of Narnia. The Castle was built in 1500 by the McQuillan family who had come to the area from Scotland around the 13th Century as hired mercenaries. When the MacDonnell’s arrived around 50 years later from Islay, they took the castle by force; however, they had a hard time of it as they were besieged consistently by the English over the next 100 years or so!
The English finally took over the castle but the MacDonnell’s weren’t easily defeated and repeatedly attacked the castle until they succeeded in scaling the cliff face and climbed the corner towers to gain entry, here they hanged the English captain and his ghost still haunts the tower, allegedly! Other stories tell the tale of a banshee haunting the castle, the ghost of Maeve Roe, said to be the only daughter of Lord McQuillan who perished with her lover on the cliffs below whilst trying to escape by small boat from the castle cell her father had imprisoned her in. The castle is open to the public year round and if you fancy scaring yourself in the waves of Whiterocks that’s equally possible. Right and left breaking waves are on offer and in small surf are suitable for all standards but over 4ft it becomes heavy and hollow and one of the most challenging breaks on the coast.
Beach breaks really are the North Coast’s forte, often compared to the thumping sandbars of France, the capital of Northern Ireland’s surf coast, Portrush, lies 2 miles to the west of Whiterocks. A popular seaside town it offers a wide range of accommodation and restaurants but more importantly two beaches orientated in opposite directions to cater for a variety of winds and swells. The West Strand is a large beach suitable for all levels. Waves grow in size from the harbour end (offering flatwater within its breakwaters) to the western end at Blackrocks which has a reef for experts.
“ Surfing at Whiterocks is all about catching a wave under the watchful walls of ancient Dunluce castle, ironically it’s a view that never gets old ”
The East Strand is famous for barrels and breaking boards, ‘East the Beast’ is worth checking in strong winds as the buildings surrounding it provide shelter and it can handle onshore winds better than most breaks in the area. If the surf is small it is suitable for all levels with showers, toilets and lifeguards in season available on site. East strand is also home to nearby Troggs surf shop run by local legend and multiple Irish surfing champion, Andy Hill. Andy offers SUP board rental, tuition and sales and for more info check out his website www.troggs.com.
