Once we’d worked out our plan of attack we geared up and made our way down to the rocks to enter the water. Just at that moment Paquin arrived and gave us some final tips and advice on the best entrance and exit points to run the minimum amount of risk. We had to wait ten minutes or so for the waves that were smashing into the cliffs to ease up, and as soon as we had a brief window of calm we ran onto the rocks and dived into the water. We started paddling towards the peak all the time keeping an eye on the waves that were breaking ahead of us.
Once we got into some slightly calmer water Jim stood up on his SUP and started paddling towards the point. To my surprise he immediately spun around and picked up the first wave of the set. The wave wasn’t big, but the section was super fast and it threw him in the direction of the rocks.
Directly following it were the next four waves in the set. From where I was positioned I saw that Jim was caught inside and getting rolled by each wave in quick succession. Relatively unscathed he eventually managed to get back outside. He was back up on his SUP and heading straight out to the peak. When he arrived alongside me he told me that that was just a warm-up and we have to go deeper. Knowing Jim’s love of charging huge slabs, this is no surprise to me. We laugh and wait for the next set of waves to come in.
