The van rusts in peace and is still full of a plethora of surfboards and SUPs but it’s the longboard that fits the mood best. Mix a bit of tranquillity with some fundamental surf technique.
I’m normally more of a shortboarder; I like the action and the hollowness of the wave. The Power and the Glory some would say…(perhaps not so much). That’s what I am most of the time, but the complexity and variety of feelings you get from riding different boards on the oceans makes you realize that every day, season or beach has its own vibration. Each moment can be enhanced if you are in the right tuning. The magical thing is that every tool makes you adapt and express a new aspect of your personality. Every board has her own rhythm and the longboard sup is something I hadn’t tried till now, not for lack of wishing.
