KNOWLEDGE : STEPPING UP – GUNNING IT
With: Iballa Moreno Photos: Moncho Gil
It’s widely accepted that the Canaries get big waves, but what photos often don’t show is the backstory of how difficult, challenging and sometimes terrifying large Canarian swells will be. When these photos of Iballa charging this lava reef popped up on our server we quickly got in touch to talk about the considerations and preparations of a session like this, as well as a little more stuff around the periphery.
Can you talk a little bit about this wave, the set up, swell it needs and any important things to know about it?
The Canary Islands give us good waves during winter; its’ a good place to surf and SUP. This day was not a normal day as it was one of the biggest swells of the season and only a few guys were out surfing on guns. I decided to go out with my friends Stephane and Nicole who are always pushing me to get into bigger waves. Sometimes it comes together and the swell direction, currents and everything was spot on and it made for a perfect time in the water, with some risks but with a lot of people keeping an eye on us in case something happened. In fact, Nicole Boronat broke her rib with the paddle in that session – respect for that woman!
So has anyone mentored you into charging waves like this, or is this a path you’ve travelled alone?
Yes. I have friends in Canary Islands like Vilayta Bajamar, another Starboard rider, and also Stephane Ettienne and Nicole Boronat (Naish). They are always searching for the biggest waves and push me to go into them.
In terms of physical conditioning to be able to catch and survive waves like this, do you do any specific training beyond just paddling a lot?
A big part of going able to go in these waves is the mental game, it’s not just physical. I’ve been riding bigger waves for most of my life via windsurfing, surfing and now stand up. Every session gives me more confidence in the water. If you give respect to the ocean, the ocean respects you, so I only go out or paddle for the waves if I’m sure it’s a good one. But at the same time, if you are going out too scared it makes it worse. I’m always motivated and pumped up to surf waves like this…it’s a lot of fun!
What about the mental game – how do you get pumped up for it? And how do you keep focused in stressful situations?
You need to have some respect for these kinds of waves. But my experience over the years with windsurfing and surfing has given me confidence in the water to be calm and relax but at the same time remain excited and focused. I like to watch the waves a little big before I go out and study the situation. The more you go in the water with big waves, the more you get used to holding the breath underwater…
Talk us through a wipe out at this place. Any general survival tips you can give us when getting rinsed?
Yes. Normally people that go in big waves are experienced; you need to go from medium to bigger waves slowly, and every day, for every session is different. Study the break closely before going out, and never go alone.
Tell us about your board and paddle you used for this session.
I was using the gun 9’6 x 27. A little big for me, but I think Starboard will be having great boards for bigger waves soon! Looking forward for that.
You are meeting new people and visiting different places with your sup career after many years on the windsurfing circuit – is that something you enjoy? Do you find any difference in attitudes?
Yes! I enjoy it a lot – I always dreamed about surfing. Windsurfing has given me a lot in my life but I’m happy to have the chance to travel for stand up and meet new people, places and surf in new waves. The girls on tour are amazing; they’re all different characters and all have the same goal: to win the contest. But out of the water they are nice and it’s cool to hang out with some of them, fun times always.
You spend more time on Fuerteventura over any other winter spot these days, what is it that you like the most here?
I´m born and raised in Canary Islands. Gran Canaria has been my home but I always travelled around the islands to surf, windsurf and now SUP as well. Fuerteventura is good. I have lots of good friends there and like to spend my winter time there. I also go to Gran Canaria, Tenerife, Lanzarote… it’s easy to go around the islands for me on the ferry, and with my van and I’ll always have all my toys.
You are pretty competitive Iballa – any plans to race or distance challenge?
I don’t think I´m competitive with other people… I’m always “competitive” with myself. Who likes to go to for example Hawaii and surf in bad waves and also do bad in a contest? It’s not fun like this, but it’s also part of the game! Some girls win, and some others lose.
I like to surf and do best that I can. If I’m in a heat, surf great and even like this I lose, I´m happy anyway with my performance… the time will come.
At the moment I don’t focus much on race as I don’t have much time to train, but there is a good group in Fuerteventura training at the moment and they are motivated, and I’ve just got my new race board, so I’m going to start slowly on this and try local and Spanish events to check on my level first.
Boards are becoming smaller and more adapted to women’s weight – what are your tips for paddling the new generation of lower volume boards?
Yes. It’s amazing how the sport changed over the last few years! I remember I was surfing on an 8’5 a few years ago, and now a 7’1 or 7’4 is a good size for surfing.
I think it all depend on your weight really. I recommend 12-18L max over your weight. For example I ride now the 7’4 (78L) and my weight is 58Kg. I also think I can go smaller, for example 7’1 72L.
What are your big wave ambitions? Can this place hold bigger swells?
There are more places in Canary Islands for big waves, you can go out on a jet ski for example… But next winter I will be searching for bigger waves for sure around the islands.
