” Laird Hamilton is the world’s most famous big wave rider and the co-inventor of “tow-in surfing”, a method that utilizes a jet ski to tow surfers into giant, fast moving waves that otherwise would be impossible to ride. Growing up in Hawaii, Laird became an accomplished surfer by the age of 17. His unending passion for surfing has led him to ride the biggest waves the planet has to offer in famous spots such as Pipeline, Jaws, and Teahupoo. He continues to ride big waves to this day at 54 years old. Inspired by his stepfather to see surfing as a type of art rather than a competition against others, Laird holds a unique view of what it means to find fulfillment while doing what you love.

In addition to creating tow-in surfing, Laird was instrumental in introducing the world to hydrofoil surfing technology and has become an advocate of stand-up paddle boarding. He is married to former professional volleyball Gabrielle Reece. They split their time between residences in Maui and in Malibu.

Laird takes us through a few of his gnarliest surfing stories, what drives him to always be in the ocean, and some of the philosophies that he has adapted to help him live his “BUCKiT” lifestyle.”

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Via Phil Keoghan