MICROKOSM

When you think of Greece, it is easy to conjure up a glorified and rather romantic image of fishermens’ huts scattered along the waterfront with boats rocking gently at anchor on the sparkling blue seas and you know what? It does exist, although on touch down at Kos airport the vibe I got was rather different.

WORDS: Sophie Mathews //  PHOTOS: Sebastian Schoffel

(This feature originally appeared in the Summer 2013 issue of SUP International. Print and digital subscriptions for readers worldwide are available HERE.)

Each day in summer holiday makers flock in by the thousands, filtered by reps to one bus or another and carted off to their respective all inclusive resorts. It reminded me of a cattle market and got me wondering; since when did holidays become so uniformed? And what ever happened to people’s desire for adventure and discovery? From that moment on we made the decision to break free from the shackles of the organised ‘animation’ and all-you-can-eat buffet resort where we would be staying. We hadn’t arranged a car prior to arrival but the thought of being trapped and unable to move from one place had me booking one with Panayotis right after check in. Now we could really find out what this gem in the Aegean Sea truly offered.  

Why Kos? I was a ‘plus one’ on a ‘work do’ revolving around SUP,  so whilst meetings were taking place at the crack of dawn and rolling through until lunch it gave me the perfect opportunity to hound the natives for local knowledge. They were only too happy to divulge. Being only 40 km long I was surprised at how many locations where highlighted on the map.  Was it really possible for every cove, town or mountain top to have some area of outstanding beauty, Roman ruin, delicious restaurant or transparent waters fit for paddle boarding? Well, there was only one way to find out.

Base camp was in Psalidi on the NW tip of the island. An ideal spot for a morning paddle before the wind generally picked up in the afternoon, meaning time to head south. Our first stop was Tam Tam, Mastichari, a beachside restaurant with just a short skip through the dunes to the water.  It seemed to be an all day affair for sunshine endeavours with a great vibe. Moving on we hit a secluded beach a little further south where its sky blue water was a real feast for the senses. The white sands were a welcome contrast to the pebbly beach of Psalidi. The light onshore wind brought a little wave that had us making a mad dash for the nourishing turquoise curls and diving face first, a nugget of a beach well worth a visit for you and your SUP. It had no name but hang a right off the beaten track about 15 minutes after Mastichari and you might be pleasantly surprised…

Panoramas
Navigating the roads in Kos is not rocket science. There is one road straight through the middle with clearly signposted roads that run to the coast; so further south we continued down to Kefalos, a laid back town stretched along the gently curving Kamari beach. Off shore from the beach was the miniature island of Kastri which looked as though it has been delicately placed in the middle of the bay.  SUPs to the ready, it was time get a closer look at the little blue and white church perched perfectly on top.  With almost no wind on that side of the island it is the ideal spot for beginners or those on a mission to paddle across the expansive bay on butter flat waters. With sunset fast approaching it was time to head up into the Dikaion Mountain to the quintessentially Greek hill top town of Zia. The 38 hairpin turns made for a fairly disturbing drive especially as I was a passenger to one Señor Alonso wannabe but, as we drew closer we noticed a restaurant hanging precariously over the mountain top. We chose that one, ‘Olympia’. Greeted like long lost friends we climbed the stairs to the roof top gardens where my jaw hit the floor. I was in awe of the panoramic views as the sun dipped behind the sea.  This really was the top of the world!

Fed but not quite ‘watered’ enough it was time to head back to Kos town to meet and greet the party scene, which you will find on the infamous Bar Street (the name says it all.)  Although not quite up everyone’s street it is something to be experienced, however it is not for the faint hearted!  Boys, be ready for scantily clad chicks who will coax you into ‘their’ bar for free shots. And ladies, brace yourselves! If this is not your scene and a nightcap is more your style try Sitar Cocktail Bar, run by a local water sports enthusiast.

Kos will leave you wanting for nothing, especially if cruising about on your SUP is what you search for. There is no other way to describe this charming little island other than a microKOSm, a miniature world unto
its own. SUP 

“  Was it really possible for every cove, town or mountain top to have some area of outstanding beauty, Roman ruin, delicious restaurant or transparent waters fit for paddle boarding? ”

Inside Info

Eat//Fish Tavern. Probably one of the most photographed restaurants on the island of Kos! Literally steps away from the main Harbour. Sit and enjoy the views and watch the hustle and bustle or relax in the quieter garden area

Drink//Sitar. Ideal for a night cap or a place to chill with friends where you can ‘hear eachother talk’ 🙂

SUP//Kefalos. Kefalos is 40 kilometers south-west of Kos town and it’s a beautiful village built on a hill at the west side of the island.  The houses here are built close one to another, narrow streets recreate the traditional architectural features of the Greek island.

Chill//Tam Tam Restaurant who says: “According to many of our guests this is the place to relax, meet with friends, eat and drink, enjoy the sun and once in a while: dance the nightlife”

Sunset//Olympia, Zia. A nice family tavern open all year round looking over the panorama of the Zia settlement.