From the land comes the cloth…The Isle of Harris in the Outer Hebrides which lie on the West Coast of the country is one of Scotland’s hidden gems.
With Barry Wallace // photos wildernesssup.co
The beauty of paddling in Scotland is you feel like you are taking a step back in time and absorbing a local culture and unique history of crofting and tweed making. Paddling has the intimate ability to connect with the nature and heartbeat of the island. Arriving by ferry into the port of Tarbert, the road shoots off up on a steep incline. As you follow the road you discover that Harris has an isolated feel to its geography, likened to a lunar style landscape that leads you down to magnificent powder white beaches and an aquamarine ocean. It is completely surreal and has to be experienced to be believed.
However this is a place that makes you work to get to its beautiful beaches. You feel you are ticking off a bucket list as you roam around this land that time forgot. Travelling down the west coast of South Harris and towards the Atlantic Ocean on single track roads you learn to wave to drivers who let you pass – all without taking your hands off the steering wheel on the narrow winding roads. Island life speeds up for no one and the sheep sleeping on the road don’t seem to understand the usual pecking order here. The first stop is Luskentyre and its beach that faces out towards the island of Taransay. Luskentyre, where white horses roam the beach is like something out of a fairytale. The bay completely empties when the tide is out revealing a vast, pristine sandscape. Paddling up the coast you feel the contrast between the land and ocean, a rugged stubbornness and divine beauty that is also reflected in the Hearach people.
There are many beaches that make their way onto ‘World’s Top 10 Beaches’ lists but we can truly see why Luskentyre is always near the top. Once you manage to pries yourself away, the journey to Scarista Beach takes you past beach after beach all with nice little breaks peeling away. No matter the weather the one thing that never changes is the power and intensity of the ocean.
Arriving at Scarista you have to make your way over a fence and field full of cattle and one un-amused bull to get access to this stretch of beach where you’ll feel like you’re the first person to discover it. No footprints, not another soul to be seen and the surf is absolutely pumping. All this in a frame of mountains in the background, it’s a cold water heaven! The purity of the air and the 5 meter tides washing the beach twice daily leave it free from any signs of pollution or litter. An extra bonus is the North Atlantic Drift current, delivering relatively warm waters to the Outer Hebrides reaching 16C in summer and dipping just below 9C in late winter. This is a beautiful isolated beach that can deliver very powerful surf. When you step out into the water here feel you are stepping into another world; a hot shower and a wee dram soon after never felt and tasted so good. All you need to know is Harris is one of the most beautiful places in the world with some of the best beaches and sunsets you will ever see with some great surf, amazing heritage and island culture. SUP
Wilderness SUP is a SUP Adventure company based in Scotland offering paddle adventures and weekend retreats. www.wildernesssup.co